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Oil Change Procedure
Simple procedure on changing oil, filter and screen

Changing the oil is not difficult and can be done with some minimal effort, a few tools and some basic common sense.  Requirements are, a clean and level surface to work on, good lighting, a container of fresh oil, clean oil filter, 17mm wrench for drain plug, oil filter wrench, receptacle to catch waste oil and a funnel or filler tube.

Choose an appropriate oil that you are comfortable with using.  There are many and varied views as to what is suitable and some of these can be viewed via my oil links page but the oil I use is Shell Advance SX4, a synthetic fortified motorcycle specific oil, API rating SG 20W-50

Run your bike until the engine is warm before attempting to drain the oil.

Oil1 drain can.jpg (27393 bytes) Find yourself a good container into which to drain your existing oil.  I use a Lube Mate, a purpose built jerry can that slips neatly under the bike without requiring a bike lift.  The central white drain plug is removed enabling the oil to drain into the can.  The plug can then be replaced and the waste oil removed to an appropriate place.  Do not pour waste oil into town drains
Oil3 filter and wrench.jpg (70174 bytes) Find yourself an oil filter wrench.  A  good one I have found is very simple and effective.  It basically consists of a length of webbing attached to a piece of square tubing that fits a standard socket ratchet.  This is very suitable and infinitely adjustable to fit all sized oil filters (unless you're working on a D9 Caterpillar).  Get a good oil filter, ask at your local bike shop.  I find the Goldwing filter fits perfectly and I use the Vesrah brand model SF-4005
Oil2 being drained.jpg (31130 bytes) Remove the oil filler cap from the engine cover on the right hand side of the bike.  Be careful not to score the edges of this cap, I use a coin and pliers, a screwdriver is too small.  Take the 17mm wrench and loosen the sump plug (under the bike).  Slide your waste oil container under the bike and remove the sump plug, allowing the waste oil to drain out.
Oil4 filter location.jpg (40277 bytes) I believe it is good practice to change the filter every time you change the oil.  Locate the existing oil filter.  You will find it almost directly behind the oil sump plug, it is fitted so that it screws in horizontally towards the front of the bike.
Oil5 filter removal.jpg (40314 bytes) Loosen it with the oil filter wrench, slide your waste oil container underneath and remove the old filter.  As with the waste oil, the used filter should be discarded carefully.  Wipe the surfaces with a clean rag and then wipe a small amount of oil on the rubber seal of the new filter.  Carefully screw the new filter on to the fitting until it is hand tight.  Do not over-tighten.  An over tightened filter is in danger of having the rubber gasket distorted causing a leak.  It is sufficient to have it hand tightened.
Oil7 screen location.jpg (69375 bytes) I believe it is good practice to remove, check and clean the oil screen with every oil change.  This screen is not located in a very convenient location and often some folk have difficulty finding it.  On my "C" model, it is on the left hand side of the bike, almost directly behind the kick stand.  You will have to get down on your knees (or lower) to find it.  The photo on the left is taken from the Clymers manual (excellent reference book BTW).  This screen can be removed with the same 17mm wrench as was used to remove the sump plug.
Oil8 screen assembly.jpg (73059 bytes) Remove the oil screen and give it a wash in clean kerosene or diesel.  You will sometimes find small iron shavings, especially the first time it is removed.  This is normal.  My understanding is that the oil passes through this screen before it gets to the main oil filter.

When replacing the screen, be careful to ensure you get it around the right way (see photo) and also, do not over tighten the cap (photo #31).  I have heard of and seen these caps cracked and broken.  Generally, this is as a result of damage caused by a rock or other object hitting it, despite it's very awkward location.  If it is damaged, it will leak and the bike should not be ridden until a replacement is located.  They are difficult to get at short notice.

Oil9 filling.jpg (46768 bytes) Finally, check that you have securely fitted the sump plug, new filter and cleaned oil screen.  Take a funnel or oil filler pipe and fill with clean oil.  The quantity required will depend on your particular model bike.  My bike takes about 3 ltrs (just under) but the best bet is to fill it until the sight gauge shows about half full.  Remember to have the bike vertical and level when checking the oil level.

Finally, run the bike again until the engine is warm, recheck the oil level and if necessary, top up with clean oil.

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