Start of my journey, Deep Cove, North Vancouver.There is an online album of photo's taken during this journey. Go to http://www.pbase.com/toa and browse. Close the window to come back to here.
By the time you read this I will be back in the
chilly climes of New Zealand but as I write this I am nursing a cold beer and a
sore arse having ridden about 8,000kms over the past two and a half weeks.
At the moment I'm in Lillooet, a little town in British Columbia, Canada; about
4-5 hours ride from Vancouver. A delightful little town with an outlook across a
valley at what looks like the foothills of the Canadian Rockies (but probably
isn't, what the hell would I know). How did I get here? Long story I guess but,
only if I make it long huh.
Last year it I became aware of a planned rally in the High Sierra's of
California scheduled very close to another planned rally in Yellowstone National
Park in Wyoming which in turn was scheduled very close to the great rally of
Sturgis in South Dakota. A bit of mental arithmetic had me thinking I could
probably work in all three if I had the permission, inclination and sufficient
funds. The first two really interested me being rallies organised and
participated by fellow Vulcan riders. The Sturgis rally also sounded good,
particularly as it was the 100th anniversary of Harley, that fine American
producer of penis extensions.
Sweet talking to the missus resulted in a surprising agreement in principle so
that hurdle was out of the road then it came down to finding how I was going to
get around the rallies. In the past I have been exceptionally well looked after
by my great friend, fellow Ulyssian and all-round good guy, Jack Foree of
Arizona who has provided me with a bike on previous USA jaunts. But, I was
reluctant to again call on his endless hospitality and chose instead to call on
another good friend (Tom Pansarasa) who I knew suffered from the incurable
disease of MBS (Multiple Bike Syndrome). He was very happy for me to use his
Vulcan however it was in a sad state of repair having been well abused in
various incarnations including one where rear tyres were burnt out well short of
their anticipated life span. Consequently the engine was rather dicey (and later
was replaced).
I then called on another fellow Ulyssian and friend, Dan Greenwood of Canada who
we hosted occasionally during his five month jaunt around New Zealand in the
summer of 01/02. Dan was very happy to allow me to make use of his Vulcan 800
Classic and I knew it was well capable of carrying me around the intended path
of NW USA and SW Canada. Thanks Dan, you're a good man, I owe you big time.
The plan was coming together.
So, bike organised, missus placated and funding sort of there the next step was
to figure out where to go. That was the easy part. As the bike was in Vancouver,
Canada the obvious choice was to head down the Pacific Coast, east across the
desert, up into Utah and Wyoming, onto South Dakota and back up into Alberta
then swing back into Vancouver, back onto the silver bird and home for a well
earned holiday. Sweet! Roughly 7,000kms, four weeks, 250kms per day, should be a
piece of piss! Not! So far I've covered 8,000kms, I still have a week to go and
my endurance is now such that I can barely ride 200k's without stopping for a
good break and allow my arse to recover. I must be getting old <sigh>.
Where have I been so far?
British Columbia
Awesome place. Fantastic mix of Coastal scenery and alpine mountains, all within
easy reach. Dan's place is on the water front in Deep Cove (North Vancouver) but
we rode fifteen minutes up from his place to find ourselves in ski fields which
are in good use over the winter. So, though it snows readily up there, it's
doesn't at all in his front yard (well, verandah).
Start of my journey, Deep Cove, North Vancouver.
Washington
My first ride down into USA had me soon hooking up with long time friend and
fellow Ulyssian, Steve "Scorpion" Thurgood of Olympia WA. Along with a few other
riders we shared a light lunch and a lot of laughs before heading south. Riding
through Washington is not unlike riding in New Zealand in many respects, at
least it was around the area I rode. It seems Washington has an inland and a
coastal side to it and the coastal side is very much like home (if you ignore
the interstates). Thankfully Scorpion and his mates found us some great back
country roads to ride.
Steve "Scorpion" Thurgood (right) #4678, Olympia Washington
Oregon
This place is pretty much like an extension of Washington but with lots more
trees. There seem to be redwoods and pines everywhere. We left the main highway
(#5) and cut west to the coast to find #101. Anyone riding in USA has to find
#101 and where it still exists, find #1 also. The highway system in USA has them
all numbered basically so odd numbers go north and south while even numbers go
east and west. Generally the lower the number, the more important the status and
greater the volume of traffic. #1 was the original road running up the West
coast but #101 was created to loop around some of the sections of the old #1 as
modern technology allowed for better roads to be built. Much of the old #1 was
swallowed up by #101 but there are still some bits of it in California. #101 is
still offering some very picturesque views of the Pacific as it swings in and
out of the shoreline. As part of the trip, I called into Sherms, a bike shop in
Reedsport OR who I have used in the past to purchase bits for my bike via the
internet. I arrived to a press interview, waving banner and decorated cake. Wow,
my fifteen minutes of fame <grin>
Press interview at Sherm's
California
The ride down from Oregon into California was interesting. It was getting dark
and we needed to get some miles under our wheels but in USA, with darkness comes
the danger of encountering animals on the road, usually deer. America is rife
with free roaming animals and deer are everywhere. On the side of the road we
witnessed a number of carcases from recent encounters of animal and vehicle and
we were very mindful of the distinct possibility of running into one. We
(Scorpion and I) tried latching onto cars to run interferance for us but each
time they would pull off onto some side road leaving us to the mercy of the
elements. Eventually we gave up. It was getting late, it was getting dangerous
and we were getting cold (surprisingly) so we overnighted in Crescent City CA.
Next morning we headed before sparrow fart and again, it was COLD! I had
forgotten how cold it can be on the coastline in the early morning. The road and
the ride was fantastic. Towering trees lined the road as it wended it's way up
and down and gently twisted around the land scape. Definitely better riding than
the other option of I5 (interstate freeway).
The "Drive Through Tree" in California
Lunch in Eureka had us meeting up with another Vulcan rider who guided us over
to Woodland, just out of Sacramento. But, talk about contrasts! Whereas in the
morning we were all rugged up with leathers and two vests by the afternoon we
were shedding garments and bungying them to our bags to ride in T-shirts. As we
rode through the rush hour traffic of Sacramento we shared in the seventeenth
continual day of 100+ degree temps (that's about 37c I think). I dunno that I
want to live in California to be honest.
NiteLite and Scorpion cooling down
That night had us enjoying the kind hospitality of more Vulcan club members who
fed and bedded us and the next day it was up into the High Sierras for the
weekend rally. As we climbed higher I began to better appreciate the importance
of altitide in finding cooler temperatures. Over the top we wended around a few
lakes that had people boating and fishing, really an idyllic setting, cool
temps, sun shining, bliss. Over the top we wended down to the site of our rally,
Lake Topaz in Nevada
Nevada
The rally here was absolutely fantastic. Great venue, well organised (but not
over organised) and plenty of options for things to do. Lake Topaz is relatively
elevated so temps were comfortable. The venue had an attached casino with a
couple of restaurants so along with the rally organised fare there was something
for everyone. Also attending the rally were fellow Ulyssians Howard Asplin (Palmerston
North), Jack Foree (Arizona) and Craig Scott from Edmonton, Canada as well as
Scorpion and I so Ulysses was well represented. In addition it was very pleasing
to again make aquaintance with some life long friends and also make some new
ones. It was especially pleasing to again meet up with Jack and Barbara Foree.
Some people make you feel good by just being there and Jack and Barb are
definetly in this category, thanks guys.
Howard Asplin #4594
Jack Foree #5186
On the Saturday we rode out to see a real ghost town, Bodie. What an amazing
place. Still in original condition with only minimal restoration. It's located
at 9,000+ feet and at the end of a 3 mile gravel road so over the years has
luckily remained untouched. Anyone planning on visiting Californai/Nevada should
check this place out, real interesting.
After the rally we hi-tailed it to Vegas. An interesting ride to say the least.
Thankfully half of it was in elevated areas and through forests so was
relatively cool but that had to end and we skirted around Death Vally in
stifling temps that had one of our party suffering heat stroke. Thankfully we
made it to Indian Springs where we managed to find a cool, air conditioned
restaurant allowing us all to cool down. Riding in those temps requires you to
carry LOTS of water and to drink constantly, up to a litre per hour 'cause the
conditions rip it right out of your system.
Vegas? Shove it! Not my kind of city I'm afraid.
Arizona
We only rode about 20 miles through the corner of Arizona but it was to again
visit the state where I have found such great riding in past years. This twenty
miles though was plenty hot and boring as we sped up I15 at 75mph
Utah
What a fantastic place this is. If it weren't for the antiquated and stifling
liquor laws and everything else the Mormon fathers do to impact on the daily
lives of it's inhabitants I would move there tomorrow. Superb national parks
like Zion, Bryces Canyon and others really are mind blowing. Zion has one
section of road that meanders through a tunnel over a mile long and it even has
windows allowing light in and you to see out as you zip past. Great experience.
Craig Scott #5380
One section of our Utah riding had us riding the Pigs Back (I think that's what
it's called). A section of road over a mile long that runs along a ridge with a
steep drop off on each side, right from the road edge, no guard rails and a
narrow one lane each way. Exciting for some, interesting for all. As we rode
through there we could see a storm brewing ahead, thunder booming, lighting
flashing. Three of us had dropped off the pack and we caught the full brunt of
it as we begain our ascent of the high hill. It was about twenty minutes
altogether of riding in thrashing rain and in the midst of an electrical storm.
At one point I swear the lightning flashed down between me and the bike ahead
and I could feel the electrical sensation in my fingers, not unlike a small
electrical shock. Weird!
Once down off the hill though we were again back into hot conditions. I opened
my bag to score a change of clothing and much to the dismay of the local
inhabitants I disrobed and changed in the service station forecourt. It's great
what you can get away with in a foreign land huh <grin>
Despite it's stifling legislation on alcohol and other things, Utah allows you
ride helmetless, a sensation that is good once you get past the fear of crashing
head first into a brick wall.
After taking a break in Salt Lake City it was onto the next rally in Yellowstone
Wyoming
Pretty much for me, Wyoming was represented by Yellowstone. If you ever get the
chance to get there, do it. It's well elevated at more than 7,000 feet so is
coolish during the summer. Yellowstone is approx 50 miles square but has
hundreds of miles of meanering roads. If you don't mind the slow pace of the
traffic it's a good experience. Wandering herds of buffalo frequently bring
traffic to a stand still and there's every chance you can catch a glimpse of
wandering deer, bear, coyote and other animals. You have to have your wits about
you for sure.
While there we rode Bear Tooth Pass which was a real blast! It takes you up to
almost 11,000 feet and even during mid-summer that's above the snow line. It was
quite weird to be looking down on snow from the summit. It was cold but not
overly so, just like a warm winter's day to be honest.
One of the better parts of Yellowstone was meeting up again with fellow Ulyssian,
Ron Halley. Ron is from Missouri and toured New Zealand in '02. Sounds like he's
returning in '04. Look out for him folks, he may be looking for some friendly
lodgings as he wanders around our shores. A fine gentleman and a great riding
companion. He'll likely as not be on my blue Vulcan, feel free to wash it for
him and replenish it's oil <hehehehehe>
Ron Halley #5381
Montana
You know you've entered Montana as the speed limit immediatly goes up to 70mph,
even on minor roads. The roads are good, well surfaced but in the few areas I
got to ride, not very interesting apart from the run around Buffalo Bill's Dam
outside Cody.
Idaho
Wheat fields, everywhere. You'll see why they call this place the "bread basket
of America". If you get there one day, head to Missoula and over Lolo Pass. My
experience at Missoula wasn't what we planned as the rear wheel bearings took
the opportunity to collapse but the local Kawasaki dealer (Big Blue Kawasaki)
had us rolling again within 24 hours. We should have replaced the axel as well
as it was scored but they didn't have one and it would have taken a couple of
days to get so we used it anyway and so far there's no sign of any problem
(1,500k's later). We'll get it replaced when I get back to Vancouver next week.
Lolo pass is great. It follows a river almost the full distance and is about 70
miles of 4th and 5th gear corners with the occasional 3rd gear thrown in for
good measure. When we got to Lowell we gassed up and met a grizzled Harley rider
heading to Sturgis. He was from Idaho and was happy to recommend some roads to
ride. One road he recommended we avoid as being just too twisty, not fun at all.
Later we got to Greer where we stopped to disrobe some of our leathers as being
too hot and also scan our maps again. A little old lady offered some advice that
we really should check out the road from Orofino to Kendrick as it was "very
pretty". Seeing as this was the very road the Harley Dude recommended we avoid
we took the latter advice and turned off at Orofino heading for Kendrick. Are we
glad we did!!!! That has to be one of the best roads around. Not long, only
about 30 miles but it wends up then down over a hill and is a continual series
of 3rd and 4th gear corners. What a blast! If it weren't for us having to
contend with the setting sun in our eyes it would have been perfect. From
Kendrick the road to Deary was also good, a little more open, higher speed but a
real blast. Thanks granny, well recommended.
British Columbia
Yes, back into Canada again. We entered at Porthill and onto Creston where we
had a gorgeous run up through Boswell and on to catch a ferry to Balfour. What
an amazing road! Apparently it is very highly rated by local and not so local
motorcyclists as being one of the best roads anywhere. I have to agree, it has
pretty much everything you would want. Good surface (mostly), corners without
too many frights, beautiful scenery, not too much traffic, an all round good
package. Do it if you get the chance. Because of all the rivers and lakes around
lower Canada it necessitates much ferry sailings but all the ones we struck were
free and without too much delay between sailings. Good service.
Craig and Smitty
found us some great roads to ride and we eventually parted company at Vernon as
they headed back East and I headed off to Lillooet. A short phone call to my
host Linda informed me it was about a four hour ride but the road recommended to
me by Smitty had me riding for five hours so it was near dark when I arrived.
Good roads though, one I am real keen to sample again is the road from Lytton to
Lillooet which has a sharp drop of of about 300-400 feet, rough road and no
guard rail. I rode up on the safe side, tomorrow I ride down on the side with
the crumbly edge. Should be fun.
Today we rode over to Whistler, very steep road (1:8 in places) but extremely
picturesque. At one stage we saw a deer off the side of the road so I turned
around and quietly motored back. The deer looked at me and seemed happy for me
to get within 20 feet of it allowing me to take a couple of photos before it
cantered into the bush again. Could have been worse huh.
Linda's Sportster lost it's rear brakes in Pemberton so she had to leave it at
the local dealer and hop onto the back of my bike for the ride home. She's gone
out camping with the boyfriend for the night leaving me with #1 son to look
after the two Siamese cats and me to write this. At the moment it is raining and
thunder is booming loudly. I hope their tent is water proof <grin>
I've still got a week to go but I'm not sure how much more riding I will do. My
body is complaining a bit so I may just cut the miles down a bit each day from
here on in.
Special thanks again to Dan and Marla for allowing me the use of their bike,
thanks guys, brilliant! There's always a bike ready for you when you return to
our shores.
Alan #4328