Care and Culture© |
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Most proteaceous plants naturally grow in habitats that are harsh and inhospitable when contrasted to the average New Zealand garden situation. Soils are usually poor, and often rocky or sandy. The plants have adapted over millions of years and developed a 'proteoid' root system which enables them to take up nutrients and moisture in hard environments. these vulnerable to fertilisers and water logging.
Good drainage cannot be overemphasised. It is essential that soils into which plants of the Protea family are to be planted are well drained. Heavy soils which may become water logged during periods of prolonged rain will invariably result in losses. Soils which are lighter - gravelly or sandy, or those that overlie stony sub-soils - are usually ideal. sloping situations (facilitating water run-off) and raised beds may also be suitable. Alkaline soils (pH7 or higher) should be avoided, as most proteaceous plants prefer acid conditions.
In general, open, sunny positions are best. All plants of the family resent overcrowding, needing air circulation to keep the foliage healthy. heavily overshadowed situations should be avoided, a light position being preferred. Sun for at least half the day is desirable, this encouraging flowering and depth of colour to the blooms.
Should be completely avoided. General fertilisers (including Blood and bone) contain phosphate which is toxic to most of he Proteaceae. Lime (which causes alkalinity) must be also avoided, as should soils which have recently being heavily fertilised (particularly former vegetable gardens). Mushroom compost would be kept to the vegetable garden and not used amongst most ornamentals due the the amount of lime it contains. In very poor soils a little nitrogen in the form of urea or sulphate of ammonia may be applied sparingly to encourage growth. There are three very relevant saying in regard to Proteaceae - "They thrive on neglect", "They can be killed with kindness" and "If they grow fast they die fast" (The latter referring to soils which are too rich.)
Proteas and their relatives need air circulation. They do not like strong winds, although they can often be remarkably tolerant of them A reasonably sheltered position that still allows air movement is best. In very open sites subject to strong winds, staking is necessary to prevent rocking or twisting which can cause root damage and result in losses.
Some species and varieties are naturally more resistant to frost than others, according to their origins. Gardeners in frost prone areas should therefore be selective and choose those noted for hardiness. In frosty situations it is desirable to over plants (with thick scrim or similar material supported over the plant or even a robust carton will often work) if heavy frosts threaten - for the first two winters at least, until the plants have gained some size and become acclimatised.
Hardier species and varieties This short list is of those that gardeners have reported to be reasonably frost tolerant. Proteas: P. amplexicaulis, P. aristata, P. 'Clarks Red', P.effusa, P.eximea, P.grandiceps, P.subvestita, P.sulphurea Leucadendrons: L.salignum forms ('Early Yellow', 'Durban Gold', 'Late Yellow', 'Manakau Red', 'Mrs Stanley', 'Red Carpet', etc) L. 'Safari Sunset', L. 'Brook's Red', L. 'Pisa', L. floridum, L. laureolum (& cultivars), L. lanigerum, L. 'Super Star', and others. Grivilleas: G. 'Gaudi Chaudii', G. 'Royal Mantle', G. 'Robin Hood', (medium hardy), G. 'McDonald Park', G. Poorinda hybrids (many), G. 'White Wings', G. victoriae, G. 'Canberra Gem', G. 'Clearview David', G. lavandulacae and G. juniperina. Telopeas (Waratahs): reasonably hardy once established in most areas, although late spring frosts may damage buds.
While good drainage is essential, this does not mean that proteaceous plants want dry conditions (although most are usually tolerant of drought once completely established). Watering (particularly during the establishment period of two years from planting) over dry summers will usually be necessary. In summer, a weekly, deep watering around the root zone is beneficial. Frequent sprinkling should be avoided.
Is desirable in most cases to encourage a compact growth habit. Proteas - minimal pruning to remove dead flower heads, but with young plants it can be beneficial to shorten leaders back to prom mote branching. As a general guideline, don't cut back into old wood - leave good leaf growth below the cut.
Leucadendrons - important to prune well back in early spring to encourage bushiness. L. 'Safari Sunset' particularly can become "leggy" if not cut back each year. Pruning of Leucadendrons should involve removal of most of the year's flowering stems and some basic shaping. (Hard picking is the best way to prune.)
Leucospermum - little pruning is usually required apart from some basic shaping and removal of spent flower heads. Picking of blooms on good stems is usually sufficient pruning in itself.
Telopeas - more than wit almost any other member of the family, pruning is vital to the bush shape and flower crop with the Waratahs. Hard cutting back immediately the blooms finish is essential. The entire flowering stem should be removed.. The promotes vigorous, bushy growth from low within the plant.
Weeds around plants may be kept under control by methods such as light hand hoeing, woven PVC weed mating, coarse bark mulches and non-residual herbicides (such as 'Round-up' and 'Preeglone') used with care. Black Polyethylene film and sawdust mulches should both be avoided. Some pre-emergent herbicides used in moderation are also successful.
Proteas and other members of the family are rarely troubled by pests and diseases, but as with all plants problems sometimes occur. Caterpillars can cause unsightly holes in leaves and bracts, particularly in Leucadendrons. Multi-purpose sprays or specific insecticides such as 'Carbaryl' or 'Thuracide' are suitable control measures.
White Waratah Scale insects can occur not only in Waratahs, but other members of the family too. All Season's Oil used in conjunction with 'Maldison' ('Malathion') taking care to get under the leaves with the spray, is the most effective method of control. Repeat applications at 14 day intervals may be necessary in the case of serious infestations.
Blackening of leaf tips and brown lesions within the leaf surface are fungus diseases which can be difficult to combat. Copper sprays such as 'Cuprox' or 'Bordeaux Mixture' and some of the newer systemic fungicides are control measures.
Always dig a hole larger than the plant container so that the soil surrounding the root mass is soft and easily penetrated by the roots. When the planter bag or pot is removed, if the roots are at all massed or matted at the bottom of the container, gently tease them out with your fingers so that they can quickly and freely move out into the surrounding soil. If your soil is dry, water the plants in thoroughly. In very sandy soils, or clay soils where there is little top soil, some extra topsoil would be incorporated into the soil in the planting hole. There is nothing like a good start to a plants life in its new home.
Harvesting flowers of the Proteaceae at the correct stage of development is desirable to give maximum vase life. A guide is;
Proteas-with most species pick just as the flower begins to open. If the bud is too "tight" it will not usually open. Leucadendrons-most of the popular picking varieties are female forms and should be picked when the bracts (terminal leaves) are at their most colourful and yet remain firm. Male varieties should be cut when the central flower is colourful but not shedding pollen. Leucospermum, Banksias & Waratahs-Pick when the first styles begin to unfold
Cut blooms are popular and sought after for a wide range of uses. Posies-the smaller flowered types are widely used in this application. Examples are Protea scolymocephala, P. nana, P. pudens, P. effusa, P. sulphurea, Leucadendron 'Mrs Stanley', L. 'Early Yellow', L. teretifolium, Leucospermum prostratum, etc Dried arrangements-Many of the proteas, most female forms of leucadendrons, the banksias and serrurias dry successfully and are used in dried floral arrangements. Bouquets-the sheer diversity of the blooms their long vase life, colour range and unique appearance is being increasingly demonstrated in the use. Large arrangements-the many larger flowered species and varieties are often first choice of florists for spectacular arrangements in business premises, foyers, functions and hotels.
Apart from using blooms that have been harvested at the correct , early stages of development, the following points should be observed;
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Last updated 4 April 2005. © |
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