The Irish climb Croagh Patrick as pilgrims, and the day I climbed
it, in the middle of the summer holidays, I was not alone: there were
many others, including many Irish families, climbing it.
Croagh
Patrick was visible with its dome shaped peak from my hostel
bedroom the previous evening in Westport. First thing in the
morning on the day of my climb there was an ominous cap of cloud
on top of it, but it soon cleared. (Though, having grown up in Taranaki,
on the land around Mt Egmont, I really did know that such a cloud
did not bode well weather-wise!)
I had breakfast at the hostel then headed into town, bought a sandwich
for lunch and walked to the edge of town to start hitching to the
village of Murrisk, at the foot of the mountain. (It was 8km to
walk to this village and I don't usually do this but the first bus
that day did not run until lunchtime which was too late.) It took
about half an hour before I got a lift, but it was a lovely old
man who picked me up, saintly in a gentle Irish way. He guessed
I was headed for the "sacred mountain" and assumed I was
holy to be doing it. I didn't feel able to ruin his day with the
truth..... He told me all about the climb, and that the top bit
was toughest, especially coming down as it was easy to slip on the
stones. He showed me where the best pub was for a cup of tea at
the end, and where to get hold of a stick for the climb.
About
half past ten I set foot on the mountain, stickless. There were
stalls selling cheap wooden staffs, but I am not used to carrying
one at home. I was later to learn why you really did need one on
this terrain!
The
first section of the climb was not too tricky, but as the climb
starts pretty much from sea-level, there is quite a bit of climbing
and it goes uphill nearly all the way, quite steeply in places.
The track in the first section was fairly rough underfoot but not
too bad. The route overall is very stony, and the stones are quite
loose on the path in places, so footwork is tricky.
At
this stage the view to the top was still clear and as I climbed
I got some great views over the bay with its many islands, and then
up by the stone cairn, over to other mountains/hills and valleys.
The views were superb even though it was a bit cloudy. I was glad
I took some photos going up, as visibility was soon to deteriorate
markedly. The views on a fine day must be simply breath-taking.
The
top part of the walk was on the dome-like part of the mountain and
it was very steep all the way. The rocks were also very unstable
so it was hard work climbing. I had not gone far on this steep bit
when a father of a descending Irish family gave me his stick and
said I would need it. He was right! I was glad to have it, especially
for the descent on this section. (I actually met children from
this same family in Knock the next day and they remembered me as
"the lady our Dad gave his stick to". Wherever you are
Dad, I really appreciated your gift!)
I
was soon walking in mist. The view of the top had disappeared and
the mist got thicker as I climbed, so there was really little idea
of what lay ahead. I knew I would make it if I just kept on keeping
on, and suddenly, about one hour and fifty minutes after I started,
I arrived at the oratory at the top. At least the other people there
told me it really was the top: you couldn't actually see far! (I
chose to believe them anyhow!)
There
was quite a celebratory feel at the top, and a real feeling of camaraderie
amongst those sheltering by the wall of the oratory. It is not a
'long' climb, but the last section is very steep, and the rocky
surface is difficult to maintain your footing on. You cannot see
the top and have no idea how much further you have to climb, until
suddenly, you are on the summit. I think we all felt that the hardest
work was done! (We were all sooooo wrong!)
The
wall of the oratory was providing some shelter and even in the brief
time I was at the top, the weather got worse. The moist feeling
in the air started to turn into definite drizzle, then it began
to rain. Time to don a raincoat. Ten minutes later when I stepped
around the side of the oratory to go inside the chapel, it was a
battle to walk against the strong, cold wind. It was certainly no
longer suitable weather for a leisurely lunch, so I started to descend.
The
whole descent turned out to be slow going and took a lot longer
than I had expected. I had the stick for the steepest bit. Then
I gave it to someone else without a stick who was about to start
on the steepest section. She gladly took it. However, the next section
down also proved very slippery as the stones had become wet. I am
probably lucky to have escaped without injury. By this stage the
wind had suddenly become incredibly strong and it was actually difficult
to stand up and not be blown downhill. Once when I slipped over,
the wind then blew me along while I was on the ground, which was
quite scary. Someone else called out to me from slightly higher
up that he 'was coming'. I was relieved to stand up unharmed before
he got to me, and I imagine he was also glad his first aid skills
were not needed. I felt a bit shaky after the fall, but conditions
on the mountain were not conducive to feeling wobbly and staying
there, so I had a few pieces of magic chocolate, took a swig out
of my water bottle, and carried on down. I had thought I would be
eating lunch in some pleasant spot lower down, but the weather was
not going to allow that either!
Eventually
I reached the bottom, cold and wet but really glad to have achieved
the climb and descent. Others who were descending at the same time
were also breathing sighs of satisfied relief. We had made it and
it had turned out to be quite an achievement.
At
this stage, I really wanted to get back to Westport for a shower
and change of clothes. I thought I might have trouble hitching in
my obviously wet and messy state, but I had hardly started waiting
before a local man picked me up. Turned out he lived in the village
but worked in town right close to my hostel, and he didn't find
it hard to guess I had just climbed the mountain.
It
was a special climb and a day to remember.
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