Yazd [Iran, 2004] On the last Friday of Ramadan, the Muslim holy month, crowds take to the streets all over Iran to mark "Jerusalem Day", protesting what they say is the Israeli occupation of one of Islam's holiest sites. These women demonstrators, trailing a hundred metres behind the men, were chanting "Down with America" and other angry anti-western slogans, but when I showed up, the chant changed to "hello-mister-welcome-to-Iran!". Such is the paradox of this fascinating and often maligned country.