Esfahan [Iran, 2004] Women in traditional chador - a black cloth that covers all but the face and hands - relax by a fountain on Esfahan's Imam Square. This half-kilometre long triumph of 17th century town planning is said to be the largest square in the world, after Beijing's Tiananmen Square. Iranian law requires women to cover up, but most young women opt for a headscarf, trousers and jacket rather than the impractical and unflattering chador.