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Kate has decided to start working for herself so prior to her starting we thought it would be an ideal time to take a couple of weeks and visit a few areas of the North Island we hadn't been to before.
The trip north was your usual 12 hours driving to any kayaking destination which most of the time is pretty boring but we were lucky that there was a detour about an hour from our desired destination of Puriri Bay that took us down some forestery roads and had one of the best views of the Bay of Islands we saw. This had to be a good omen!
The first night sunset at Puriri Bay campsite.
We arrived at Puriri Bay just on dusk and set about getting our new "mansion sized" tent up. It was a bit of luxury not having to grovel in and out of a 3 person tent for a change. The sunset was absolutely gorgeous, not a breath of wind but the forecast for the next few days didn't look very good. We found that the forecast seem to be worse that actual conditions which is better than the other way around but it can make deciding whether to paddle or not problematic.Our first full day at Puriri Bay was spent visiting the near by town of Russell in the morning and then paddling the Whangaruru Harbour for the afternoon. We had heard there was a fish and chip shop on the other side of the harbour but we didn't find it on this paddle.
The views between showers were quite spectacular.
Day two's weather was not conducive to getting into the kayaks as wind was up around 20 knots and the occasional showers so we went for a walk around the North Head Walkway which starts just behind the camp. The walk has some awesome views of the surrounding coastline and islands even through the heavy showers. Grant Glazer showed up later in the day and let us know that Paul and Natasha wouldn't be coming due to a bout of the flu. We sat around and had a catch up with Grant which involved a couple of beers.
Day three dawned fine and clear and the weather forecast was reasonable so we decided to do the Puriri Bay/Bland Bay/Puriri Bay loop this involves a 200 metre portage at Bland Bay to get back to the water on the Puriri Bay side of the peninsular. The weather was so good that we ended doing a little side trip north of Bland Bay to the Pink Cave, Kate tried going through it but the swell was a little large for comfort and she ended up with the back of the Sea Spirit getting swept into the cave wall and damaging the rear of it. Nothing a couple of hours of labour won't fix which is one of the joys of building your own kayaks. Grant headed around the other side and came through the cave from the opposite direction without any problems at all, this was a first for him as he had visited the area about six times before and it had always been too rough for him to attempt. It was a grand day on the water with lots of rock gardens to poke our noses into.
Kate exiting the Pink Cave after scratching the Sea Spirit.
Day four was another day where the forecast turned out to be worse than the conditions we experienced. We headed south toward the Mimiwhagata Coastal Park about nine kilometres away we didin't quite make it there as the weather got a little rough for a time so we decided to head into shore about a kilometre short of the park. When we did a paddle we tended to take the most direct route there and then follow the coastline back home exploring as we went along. As the photos will attest to Grant was quite keen on exploring most of the caves we came across. On the way back we thought we would stop at Oakura Bay and get some fish and chips for an afternoon snack but we arrived just after the shop had shut for the afternoon so it was salami and cheese on crackers once again. It was a quick paddle across the bay back to our camp site just before another squall came through.
Kate looking happy on the way to the fish shop, pity it was closed.
The next day was a travel and get some chores done day. The Warrant of Fitness had expired on the car so we had to get that sorted, we also packed up camp and moved to Russell with the intention of paddling out to Urupukapuka Island via one or two others in the bay.
Day six once again looked a lot better than the forecast said, but we decided that even if the forecasted 15-20 knot winds got up we would be ok as we had the option of paddling mostly in sheltered areas along the shore on the way back. We left from Oneroa Bay on the east side of Russell and headed out to Motuarohia Island (Roberton Island) it is covered with both native bush and farmland and has about six houses on it, looked like a pretty good place to live to me. We made land about half way down the island and paddled around the southern coast line and then up to the northern point of the next island which is Moturua Island we then paddled in between Moturua and Motuoi Islands and things got rather interestng once through the gap and into the "open to the ocean" side of Moturua Island as the swell was coming from one direction, the wind chop from about ninety degrees to that and the waves were also bouncing back off the rocks. It was only about a kilometre worth of paddling but it made you work hard. We ducked into the gap between Moturua and Motukiekie islands for a bit of respite and came across some sort of lodge or an extremely weathy persons holiday home that I think may suit me even more than Motuarohia's houses. When we parted company with Grant the previous day he had said he was heading to Urupukapuka to camp for the night and that was were we headed next. We kept an eye out for Grant but we never did see him. Urupukapuka Island is the largest island in the Bay of Islands and Cable Bay was a pleasent place for a lunch stop. The trip back was going to be quite direct but the norwester decided to pick up to the 15 knots the weather forecast predicted so we took a more southerlie route home hoping to find a bit of shelter in the lee of the land, this didn't really evetuate and it was a bit of a slog but at least it was only a couple of hours worth. As "Murphy's Law" would have it the weather calmed down just as we reached Oneroa Bay but we did have a reception commitee (well a committee of one) as Grant had driven from Rawhiti, his launch point for his overnighter and arrived at the beach about ten minutes before we got there.
Kate looking relieved that we had reached a bit of shelter coming back from Urupukapuka.
The next day was another travel day with a stop at Waitangi to have a look at where the Treaty was signed. It's a special place and I'm glad I finally got to visit it. I know a Waka and a kayak don't have a lot in common other than floating on water but the Waka at Waitangi is something special and as a builder of water craft I think I have a small appreciation of the effort involved in building it. From Waitangi we headed to Matauri Bay to have a look at the Cavalli Islands which Captain Cook named in 1769. The weather started to deteriorate while we were stop at Matauri Bay and when we got to Tauranga Bay, our intended stop, we found the wind and rain blowing directly onshore where we would have pitch our tent so we took the easy option and got a motel a little further up the road at Mangonui.
The next day was some more travel and a stop at Kaitaia to stock up on provisions before heading back the way we had come a little to get to Matai Bay. Matai Bay is a lovely spot even in the winter and the temperature was quite nice when you were sheltered from the coolish breeze.
Matai Bay was a special spot to paddle but the campsite was a little too close to surrounding houses.
Once again the weather forecast didn't indicate what we could see above us, it was bright and sunny but the Metservice were telling us that showers and wind should have been happening. NorWesters were forecast so we decided to head north and that way if the wind did pick up it would be at our backs on the way home. As it happened we ended up paddling on a mill pond for the next five hours. The coast around Matai Bay is stunning, high cliffs of varying strata and coloured rocks, caves everywhere just inviting you to come on in and water that was so clear you could see the hundreds (if not thousands) of Kina (Sea Urchins) lining the rocks. We paddled up to Cape Karikari so that we could see the beautiful white sand beaches of Karikari Bay in the distance and then rock gardened our way back. We arrived back at Matai Bay at lunchtime and after a bite to eat we decided the day was far to good to waste so we headed east out to Otamatiti Point for a look. This piece of coast was even more interesting than our morning paddle with more caves to explore, unfortunately the camera battery died so not too many pictures I'm afraid. One cave had a smaller cave within it and it had another hole in the rock at water level that was letting sunlight from the other side through. It was really cool sittiing in a pitch black cave with the only light getting in coming through the crystal clear waters.
Some of the caves up this way were very large and quite deep as well.
The next day arrived with a wicked thunder storm just before dawn, not much rain where we were but heaps of light flashes and noise. It wasn't a day for paddling so we decided to have a trip up to Cape Reinga. The place has got a special feel to it, I'm not sure what it is but I liked it. According to the Maori, the spirits of the dead travel to Cape Reinga on their journey to the afterlife in the spiritual homeland of Hawaiki. At Cape Reinga they depart the mainland by leaping off an 800 year old Pōhutukawa tree on the cape.They turn briefly at the Three Kings Islands for one last look back towards the land, then continue on their journey. Coming from Invercargill I've been to see the sign post in Bluff at the botttom of the South Island numerous times and it was nice to see the one at the other end of the country for the first time.
I think this is the Pohutakawa tree that the spirits depart from.
More travelling the next day with the main priority on the itinery to have a look the Kauri trees in Waipoua Forest. We made our way down the east coast of Northland, grabbed a car ferry across the Hokianga Harbour continuing on with a stop at the heads. The heads look like a fine place for a bit of kayak surfing and a quick paddle would have you across the harbour to the biggest sand hills I've ever seen. I'll try and spend a bit more time here next trip up this way. On to Waipoua Forest and a meeting with Tane Mahuta. Waipoua Forest has three quarters of the remaining Kauri trees in New Zealand and the largest of all resides here, Tane Mahuta is one massive tree, I've never seen anything even remotely close. This was another special place on our holiday and the rain just added to the experience, I think New Zealand bush is much nicer with a bit of moisture around it gives it a freshness that is hard to beat. We ended up staying at Matakohe with the intention of haveing a paddle on the Kaipara Harbour the next day but it was far too cold, windy and wet for any paddling.
It was decision time. Where to next? Kate hadn't been to the Coromandel before so in the spirit of the whole holiday we decided to visit somewhere new. I had stayed at the Coromandel for a few days after last years Coastbuster but it was virgin territory for Kate. A stop in Thames to stock up supplies and check the weather forecast on the net and we were off north again. The forecast said NorEasters so we thought the west side of the Coromandel Peninsular would be best. We stayed just north of Cormandel Town at Shelly Beach and awoke to a perfect morning so in the ethos of "making hay while the sun shines" we got up early (not Grant early) and paddled north up the coast for 5 kilometres or so, then rock gardened our way back. We saw more fish on this return leg than all the other paddles combined More kina, a short tailed sting ray, lots of spotties and schools of a long skinny fish of undetermined name. The water was like a mill pond once again but a while after we landed the wind picked up quite quickly so starting early had it's advantages.
The water was this calm for most of the morning.
We had four more days of holidays but these were spent in pursuits other than kayaking we visited the open cast gold and silver mine at Waihi. It is one serious hole in the ground! A day trip to Tauranga and then a visit to Whakapapa Ski field on Mount Ruapehu on the way south. Kayaks and snow don't often get together in New Zealand so that was rather novel.
I have visited most areas of New Zealand now and while I still can't say I've seen anywhere as pretty as the Southern Alps, the Bay of Islands ranks in my top three. I still haven't been to the eastern most tip of the North Island and the one that embarrasses me the most Stewart Island. I only lived 20 kilometres away from it for most of my life but it was one of those of those things I never got around too.
The final shot as the sun set on our holiday.
More photos of our trip
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